Getting started · Beginner ·

Your first formula: a simple 100 g lotion, step by step

A forgiving oil-in-water lotion with every percentage explained, and exactly what to do at each stage of the process.

Key takeaways

  • A lotion is three jobs: a water phase, an oil phase and a cool-down for the delicate ingredients.
  • Weigh everything in grams. Percentages only work as weights, never as spoons or millilitres.
  • Heat water and oil phases to 70-75°C, blend them, then add the preservative and actives below 40°C.
  • Check the pH, label the jar with the date, and judge the texture after 24 hours, not in the beaker.

This is the lotion we recommend for a first batch. It is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion: tiny droplets of oil suspended in water. It feels light, absorbs quickly and is the most forgiving type to make. It is designed for 100 g, small enough that a mistake costs very little.

The formula

Simple everyday lotion (Batch: 100 g)

Phase A: water phase

  • Distilled water: 73.2% (Q.S.: fills the batch up to 100% after everything else is weighed)
  • Glycerin: 3.0% (Humectant: draws water into the skin)
  • Xanthan gum: 0.2% (Thickens and steadies the emulsion)
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.1% (Chelator: protects the preservative)

Phase B: oil phase

  • Olivem 1000 (emulsifier): 4.0% (Lets oil and water stay together)
  • Cetyl alcohol: 2.0% (Gives body and a creamy feel)
  • Shea butter: 4.0% (Rich, protective emollient)
  • Jojoba oil: 10.0% (Light, skin-like oil)

Phase C: cool-down

  • Broad-spectrum preservative (e.g. Euxyl PE 9010): 1.0% (Use your supplier's recommended rate)
  • D-Panthenol: 2.0% (Soothing active)
  • Vitamin E (tocopherol): 0.5% (Antioxidant for the oils)

The oil phase (emulsifier, fatty alcohol, butter and oil) adds up to 20%, which gives a light lotion. You can open this in the Formulation Studio: choose the O/W Lotion or Cream profile and the water balances itself automatically.

Before you begin

  • Gather the tools from the home lab starter kit.
  • Spray your work surface, beakers, spatulas and the final container with 70% isopropyl alcohol and let them air-dry.
  • Tie your hair back, wash your hands and wear gloves.
  • Weigh each phase into its own heat-proof beaker. For tiny amounts such as 0.1 g, use a scale accurate to 0.01 g.

Method

  1. Make a slurry. Stir the xanthan gum into the glycerin first, then add it to the water. This stops it from clumping.
  2. Heat the phases. Place beakers A and B in a water bath and heat both to 70-75°C. Hold for about 20 minutes so the butter and emulsifier melt completely.
  3. Combine. Pour phase B (oil) into phase A (water) while stirring.
  4. Blend. Use a stick blender in short bursts for 1-2 minutes, tilting the beaker so you do not whip in air. The mixture turns white and creamy.
  5. Cool gently. Stir by hand now and then as it cools. The lotion thickens noticeably as it cools.
  6. Cool-down phase. Below 40°C, add phase C one ingredient at a time, mixing after each.
  7. Check the pH. Aim for roughly 5-5.5. See why pH matters for how to test and adjust it.
  8. Fill and label. Pour into your sanitised container. Write the name, date and batch number on it.

After the batch

  • Wait 24 hours before judging the texture. Viscosity keeps building for one to two days.
  • Do a patch test on your inner forearm for 24-48 hours before using it widely.
  • Write down what you did and what you noticed. Next time, change only one thing (for example the amount of shea butter) so you can tell what made the difference.
  • If something looks wrong, check the troubleshooting guide.