Ingredients · Beginner ·
How to read an INCI list (and write your own)
The small print on every cosmetic label is a recipe in code. Here is how to decode it.
Key takeaways
- INCI names are standard worldwide, so use them when searching suppliers.
- Above 1%, ingredients are listed from most to least; at or below 1%, order is free.
- The first few items make up most of the product. The preservative usually sits near the 1% boundary.
- Trade names such as "Olivem 1000" are brand names, not INCI.
What INCI is
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives every ingredient one standard name, so a label printed in Greece and one printed in Japan refer to the same thing. Trade names (the brand names suppliers sell under) differ between brands, which is why you should always search by INCI.
The ordering rule
- Ingredients above 1% are listed in descending order of concentration.
- Ingredients at or below 1% can be listed in any order.
- Water is usually first and is called Aqua.
Reading an example
| INCI term | What it is | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Aqua | Water | Solvent: the base of the formula |
| Glycerin | Vegetable glycerin | Humectant |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Fatty alcohol | Thickener, co-emulsifier |
| Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter | Shea butter | Emollient and occlusive |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E | Antioxidant |
| Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin | A preservative blend | Preservative |
Quirks to know
- Plants use Latin names, often with the common name in brackets: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter.
- Blends are listed as their separate components, for example Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.
- Colours appear as CI numbers (such as CI 77491 for red iron oxide).
- Fragrance can be listed as Parfum, but known allergens (like Linalool or Limonene) must be listed individually above certain levels.
What you can learn from a list
- Where is the preservative? It is usually close to the 1% line.
- If glycerin is listed before the oils, the product is more humectant than occlusive.
- The first five ingredients make up the bulk of the product.
Writing your own
If you ever give or sell a product, you will need a correct INCI list. In Formularium, the Product Information File export builds one for you: it uses real INCI names, merges duplicates, splits blends into their components and orders everything according to the 1% rule.